[TER-RA-BEE-AN-KAH] Located in Radda in Chianti, Province of Siena, Tuscany, Italy. The first document to mention Terrabianca is dated 1085: two centuries before Dante. Located just over 35 miles from Florence towards Siena, in the heart of Chianti Classico, its gently rolling country is much the same as it was in the Middle Ages. Roberto and Maja Guldener, have ‘only’ been here since 1988; although in this relatively short period of time, they have propelled the estate to the highest quality levels, entirely restoring the seventeenth-century homestead, constructing a brand new winery, and restructuring the Terrabianca range. In the hands of Roberto, Maja, and daughters Maja Jr. and Annette, Terrabianca has become one of the world’s best loved Tuscan wineries, reaping countless praise and awards both for sheer quality and striking designer packaging. Could it be otherwise, given terroir, Guldener perfectionism, and star winemaker Vittorio Fiore? At Terrabianca, soil composition is calcareous (hence its “white” appearance), with strata of chalk, sand and clay from the Paleozoic and Mesozoic eras: ideal for top-quality grape growing. The vineyards are surrounded by olive groves and woodland, and lie at altitudes between 250 and 500 meters above sea level, with ideal exposures (south and southeast) on 307 acres. The range is diverse and stunningly good, providing singular consistency from vintage to vintage. In fact, success has been such that the original Terrabianca nucleus hardly sufficed to meet demand; thus, almost a decade after the Guldeners moved to Tuscany, they acquired a second property in 1997, “Il Tesoro”. This second estate consists of 262 acres in the mineral-rich Maremma, now increasingly fashionable in the wine world. Where Terrabianca is in the central area of Tuscany (province of Siena), Il Tesoro is 43 miles away in the southwest, close to the sea and the holiday resort of Massa Marittima. Beside growing superb Sangiovese, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes (which are immediately transported “home” to Terrabianca to be vinified), the “new” (it’s actually almost as ancient as the Radda property) Maremma estate comprises 4,000 olive trees, many of which are 300-400 years old, yielding unbelievable extra virgin olive oil. A total of 129 acres are currently under vine. Note: With 42 different clones-20 sangiovese, 15 Cabernet and 7 merlot-there is no repetition of combinations in any wine.The 2007 Campaccio is a blend of 70% Sangiovese & 30% Cabernet. The fruit comes from the estate's in Maremma & Chianti Classico. The wine spend 12 months in a combonation of French and American oak with an additional 12 months in bottle before release. This wine has great concentration and freshness. Dark berry fruit and a hint of cocoa and roasted almonds round out the flavor profile. Year in and year out, this wine gets great reviews and is a staple amoung some of the best Italian dinner tables.
The 2007 Campaccio is beautifully ripe and succulent in its dark, extroverted fruit. In 2007, Campaccio veers on the edge of overripeness but there is just enough acidity to keep things in check. French oak, smokiness, new leather and licorice add depth to the rich, creamy finish. I am not sure how the 2007 will age, but it should provide highly pleasurable drinking for at least another decade. Campaccio is 70% Sangiovese and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022.
Terrabianca tends to bottle later than most estates in Tuscany. Consequently, most years I review the wines from barrel rather than bottle, an approach I now realize does not show these wines in the best possible light. Readers will find much to admire in these delicious, endowed reds.
Wine Advocate #191 October 2010; 92 Points Antonio Galloni
